South Moravia

Jewish quarter in Mikulov

Rubrika: Culture|Tourism

18 9 2009

Every evening, reflections of soft light can be seen in the windows of the Jewish quarter in Mikulov. Pinkish wall of the Upper Synagogue, arches of ground floor housing and their shadowy alcoves are the last reminders of rich Jewish past in town. Stories, that became legends, had been written on four thousand tombstones in the Jewish cemetery. For example the one about Golem, a strong man made of clay that is brought to life by having a marble put in his forehead. This artificial man was created right in the Jewish quarter of Mikulov. And that was in the head of former Mikulov rabbi Jehud Levy.

Rabbi Löw became so famous as a constructor of the clay man that his achievements of a reputable Jewish theologist and reformer became of less importance. The magic of creating an artificial being was stronger. Four centuries later a famous sculptor Stefan Milkov brought this giant strong man to life. In the Tanzberg hotel of Mikulov, where the rabbis used to gather, Golem stands leaning against a fireplace chimney, its body radiating the heat into the back of visitors drinking in the brewery. The soil has always been fertile for legends in the Jewish quarter. Rabbi Mordechaj Benet became a legend during his life. Many Jews believed that he was capable of miracles and thought of him as being a saint even before he was put to rest at the “Rabbi Hill”. Many Jewish people from all over the world still come to the most precious part of Mikulov cemetery, to pray and to place a small stone and a piece of paper on a tombstone expressing their wishes.

They might have been heading to Abraham Oppenheimer (1664-1736), who being a rabbi, established a foundation that purchased houses whose rent was used to support the education of poor children. At the same time he put together a valuable collection of books, counting seven thousand volumes and one thousand manuscripts that are now a part of the Oxford University Library. Jewish people, during Mikulov heyday era at the beginning of 19th century, accounted for more than 40 percent of the population. Hieronymus Lorm used to live in Mikulov in those days. His well started career of a poet, writer and journalist was stopped by a disease that eventually resulted in him becoming blind and deaf. Nevertheless, he still managed to find a way to communicate with others. He came up with a simple touch-style alphabet, that is now used by blind and deaf people worldwide. Its system is very simple. Particular letters are expressed by the pressing of points on a palm and pulling fingers.

One cannot hear Jewish prayers in the same street anymore, instead, there is a bustling life of cafes and pubs. Red blossoms of geraniums hang out of the windows, one can smell coffee, sweet desserts and freshly poured wine. The Jewish quarter has changed. The majority of Jewish houses were destroyed after 1945, out of original 317 only 90 remain. Most of them are of renaissance character.

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South Moravia

V srdci Evropy, v kraji vína a tradičních zvyků České republiky, se nachází krásné a malebné prostředí největšího lužního útvaru v Evropě okolo řeky Dyje a je jako stvořené pro dovolenou a odpočinek. Krásná část jižní Moravy je bývalé Lichtenštejnské panství mezi obcí Lednice a Valtice, který je chráněn UNESCO.

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